The Chocolate Whisperer

Friday, October 17, 2014

Fall Harvest

When summer comes to an end and cool winds graze my face in the morning, I know it's time to get my fall calendar in order. Clean the garden, harvest fall vegetables, plan holiday parties, get wood for the fireplace, and maybe plan a bonfire...

The first holiday is Halloween, also known as All Hallows Eve. It suggests carving pumpkins and making candies for the kids (little and big ones) for "Trick or Treat". We can make pumpkin pies, pumpkin ice cream, butternut squash soup, even hot cocoa with pumpkin marshmallows. Ooooh -- let's start with that one!

Hot Cocoa

3 ounces Dark chocolate (58%-70%), chopped

1/4 cup Hot water

3/4 cup Hot milk

Pinch of Salt

Spices (cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla)

1. In a large bowl, combine hot water, hot milk, salt, and spices.

2. Add chocolate and let rest for 2 minutes to allow the chocolate to melt.

3. Whisk mixture vigorously until well homogenized.

4. Serve with whipped cream and Pumpkin Marshmallows (recipe follows)

Pumpkin Marshmallows (50 1-inch pieces)

4 TBSP Powdered gelatin

180 ml Cold water

400 gm Sugar

180 ml Water

1 TBSP Corn syrup

2 Egg whites, whipped

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup Canned pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)

1 tsp Vanilla

1 tsp Cinnamon

1/2 tsp Nutmeg

1/2 tsp Clove

1 tsp Ginger

1/2 tsp Allspice

1/2 tsp Salt

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Cornstarch, for dusting

Prepare the Gelatin:

1. Put 180 mL cold water in a bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over water. Allow gelatin to sit in water for 5-10 minutes to hydrate.

2. In a bain marie or in a microwave at half-power (30 second increments), melt gelatin and water until it becomes liquid. Gelatin should be warm (body temp) but not hot.

Prepare an Italian Meringue:

1. In a saucepan, combine sugar, water, and corn syrup. Gently combine with a spatula. If sugar granules get on the sides of the saucepan, brush the saucepan with a brush dipped in water.

2. Cook sugar, water and corn syrup to 240°F. (A digital thermometer or candy thermometer works best.)

3. Once sugar, water, and corn syrup reaches 220°F, add egg whites and pinch of salt to mixing bowl fitted with whisk attachment. Whip on medium speed to soft peak. Egg whites are soft peak when they hold a shape but fall over. Note: If the egg whites are at soft peak and the sugar has not reached 240°F, lower the mixing speed to the lowest setting. Don't turn the mixer off.

4. When sugar has reached 240°F (soft ball stage), carefully pour sugar in mixing bowl over whipped whites. Try to avoid pouring sugar on whisk attachment to prevent burns. Safety first!

5. Whip for 2 minutes at high speed.

6. Lower speed and add melted gelatin

7. Continue whipping Italian meringue on medium speed until medium peak. The peaks still fall over but not as much as a soft peak. They will not be as firm as a stiff peak which does not fold over at all. The meringue should be cooled to room temperature by this time.

Make the Marshmallows:

1. While meringue is mixing, combine pumpkin puree, salt, and spices in a bowl.

2. Fold Italian meringue into the pumpkin puree/spice mixture until fully incorporated.

3. In a bowl, combine powdered sugar and cornstarch. Generously dust a shallow sheet pan with mixture.

4. Pour marshmallow over powdered sugar/corn starch.

5. Spread to a 3/4-inch thickness; generously sprinkle with more powdered sugar and corn starch.

6. Let marshmallow rest until set at room temp. Cut into desired shapes.

Store finished marshmallows in an airtight container.

Enjoy many fall nights with a cup of (or two) of this delicious concoction.

Happy Fall!

Monday, September 8, 2014

Celebrate Chocolate!!

“He showed the words ‘chocolate cake’ to a group of Americans and recorded their word associations. ‘Guilt’ was the top response. If that strikes you as unexceptional, consider the response of French eaters to the same prompt: ‘celebration’”.

-- Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

We must celebrate chocolate!

I am not French, but I also believe chocolate should be honored. Milk chocolate, dark, bittersweet, even white – all of these have a place on our table. All are instrumental when celebrating, whether they be life’s milestones or Sunday afternoon with friends.

The trifle is a perfect way to start the celebration.

Also referred to as Fool, Zuppa Inglese, Tipsy Cake, or Punschtorte, the trifle is an English dessert layered with sponge cake, custard, fruits and whipped cream.

I love making trifles for large parties because they are easy and affordable. Turning your favorite dessert into a trifle is not difficult at all:

Tiramisu - layers of cake soaked with rum and coffee, zabaglione, fresh fruits, mascarpone, whipped cream and cocoa powder
Black forest - layers of chocolate cake soaked with Kirsch, cherries, chocolate mousse and whipped cream
Banana cream pie - layers of sponge soaked with rum, custard, sliced ripe bananas and whipped cream

My favorite Trifles are inspired by seasonal ingredients. I recently made a Trifle consisting of strawberries, chocolate cake, and three kinds of chocolate mousse.

Chocolate, Strawberry and Mousse Trifle (Best made a day in advance)

Ingredients for Chocolate Sponge Cake (Roulade)

5 Egg whites

1 tsp Cream of tartar

Pinch of Salt

100 grams Sugar

5 Egg yolks

75 grams Cake flour

35 grams Cocoa powder

¼ tsp Baking powder

¼ tsp Baking soda

2 pints of Strawberries halved, stems removed

Frangelico liquor

3/4 cup Simple syrup

The Mousses: All mousses should be made no more than 30 minutes prior to using. Otherwise, they will set and can’t be poured into the bowl.

Ingredients for Dark Chocolate Mousse:
6 oz. Dark chocolate (61% to 75%), melted

1/2 cup Milk, hot

Pinch of Salt

1/4 tsp Vanilla extract

1 cup Heavy cream, softly whipped

Ingredients for Milk Chocolate Mousse:

12 oz. Milk chocolate, melted

⅓ cup + 2 TBSP Milk, hot

3/4 cup Heavy cream, softly whipped

1/2 tsp Balsamic vinegar

Pinch of Salt

Pinch of Cinnamon

White Chocolate Mousse:

6 oz. White chocolate, melted

¼ cup Milk, hot

½ cup Heavy cream, softly whipped

1/2 tsp Balsamic vinegar

Pinch of Salt

Directions for the Chocolate Sponge Cake

Watch here for a how-to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xszjXq6gPc&list=PLAWpIBpOvRSJa8KNjNwUtSojHovkMX2Ul&index=4

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line ½ sheet tray with parchment paper.

2. Make a French Meringue: Add egg whites, pinch of salt, and cream of tartar to mixing bowl fitted with whisk attachment. Whip egg whites, pinch of salt, and cream of tartar until foamy. Slowly add sugar to prevent deflating the whipped egg whites. Whip egg whites to medium peak.

3. Gently whisk egg yolks.

4. Sift dry ingredients together.

5. Fold egg yolks into French meringue. Once yolks are incorporated into French meringue, fold dry ingredients in two batches. It is ok to leave some of the dry ingredients from the first round before adding the second batch of dry ingredients. Make sure there are no dry sections after second round of dry ingredients is folded in.

6. Pour onto prepared sheet tray. With an offset spatula, gently spread the batter to the edges of the sheet tray, being careful not to deflate the batter. Clean the edge by running your thumb around the edge of the sheet tray. This makes it easier to remove the cake from the sheet pan once finished baking.

7. Bake for 7-8 minutes. Roulade is done when it springs back when touched.

8. Remove from oven. Run spatula along edges of pan to loosen cake. Cover with parchment paper and flip over to remove cake from pan. Peel the parchment paper off the cake. Cover with a towel to keep the cake moist until completely cooled.

Assembling the Trifle

1. Make simple syrup: In a saucepan, combine 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup cold water. Bring to a boil until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Stir in Frangelico.

2. Cut the cooled cake into pieces to arrange in first layer of trifle bowl.

3. With a pastry brush, brush the cake layer with 1/2 of Frangelico/simple syrup

4. Slice strawberries in half and arrange in any desired pattern. Press the cut side of strawberries firm against the glass. Any odd pieces of berries and cake can be placed in the middle.

5. Make the white chocolate mousse:

· Melt white chocolate over a double boiler. Remove from heat.

· Heat milk in the microwave.

· Pour hot milk over melted chocolate. Gently stir until combined.

Cool over ice bath.

· In a mixer, whip heavy cream to soft peaks.

· Fold whipped cream into melted chocolate mixture.

6. Pour white chocolate mousse over strawberries. Mousse should completely cover strawberries with ½ inch coverage. Try to keep mousse on top of strawberries without getting it in between trifle bowl and strawberries.

7. Put in refrigerator to set for about 30 minutes.

8. Make milk chocolate mousse:

· In a double boiler, melt milk chocolate. Remove from heat.

· Heat milk in microwave.

· Pour hot milk over milk chocolate. Gently stir until combined.

Cool over ice bath.

· Add balsamic vinegar, cinnamon, and salt to milk chocolate mixture once

cool.

· In a mixer, whip cream to soft peaks.

· Fold whipped cream into melted chocolate mixture.

9. Pour milk chocolate mousse over white chocolate mousse.

10. Put in refrigerator to set for 30 minutes.

11. Brush another layer of cake with Frangelico syrup and place on top of milk chocolate mousse.

12. Make dark chocolate mousse:

· Melt dark chocolate over a double boiler. Remove from heat.

· Heat milk in the microwave.

· Pour hot milk over melted chocolate. Gently stir until combined. Stir in

vanilla extract and pinch of salt. Cool over ice bath.

· In a mixer, whip heavy cream to soft peaks.

· Fold whipped cream into melted chocolate mixture.

13. Pour dark chocolate mousse on top of cake layer.

14. Cover trifle with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator overnight. To finish trifle, decorate with whipped cream, mousse or more berries.

Here’s what the layers look like:

To garnish the top, artistic skills are not a requirement. All that is needed is an imagination. The top can be decorated in any fashion you like. I use a pastry bag and make designs. The chocolate can also be drizzled or spread in a thin layer.

Or, instead of making one large dessert, consider Individual Fools. These are perfectly portioned desserts for guests who want a beautiful dessert all of their own.

Individual Fool Recipe

Ingredients:

4 cups Angel food cake, cut in one-inch cubes

12 oz. Raspberries

¼ cup + 2 TBSP Sugar

Zest of one Lime

1 cup Heavy cream

¼ cup Crème Fraîche

Procedure:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2.. On a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, place angel food cake cubes in oven for 5-10 minutes until toasted. Remove from oven and let cool.

3. With a fork, mash berries with 2 TBSP sugar and zest

4. In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream and Crème Fraiche together. Slowly add remainder of sugar while heavy cream and crème fraiche are mixing.

5. Alternate layers of toasted angel food cake, raspberries and whipped creams. Serve.

Or, try this variation of the Fool:

This one is layered with angel food cake, lemon cream and blueberry jam (made with my garden blueberries) and topped with a brandied cherry. To make brandied cherries, cook Bing cherries in simple syrup for 15 minutes. When cooled, place cherries in mason jars filled 1/3 with simple syrup and 2/3 with brandy. The longer they sit, the better they taste. Mine were in the jar for a year.

I encourage you to celebrate using these recipes, whether it is a birthday, anniversary, or simply, Tuesday.

Thursday, July 31, 2014

Presenting the Tomato

Gardening gives me happiness and a connection with the land, a responsibility with the soil from where I get amazing fruits. What a joy to harvest them and then, with those fruits, concoct marvelous and simple dishes to enjoy with family and friends.

Tomatoes from my garden

Take my Caprese salad:

● 2 beautifully ripe tomatoes, sliced

● 1 ball buffalo mozzarella, sliced

● ½ cup fresh basil, mint and tarragon, chopped

● 1 roasted red pepper, sliced

● ½ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)

● 1 teaspoon kosher salt

● 1 teaspoon freshly crushed black pepper

● More EVOO

On a plate, arrange sliced ripe tomatoes, sliced Buffalo mozzarella, herbs and roasted red pepper. Drizzle olive oil over salad and season with salt and pepper. Serve with additional EVOO.

Kir's Caprese salad

Or maybe let's try a Grilled Peach Panzanella:

For the Salad:

● 2 ripe but firm peaches, thickly sliced

● 6 slices of brioche bread

● 2 ripe tomatoes, chopped in ¾ inch chunks

● ½ red onion, sliced extra thin

● Lots of fresh herbs (basil, mint, parsley, tarragon, chives), chopped

Dressing:

● 4 Tablespoons rice vinegar

● 1 clove of garlic, crushed

● Salt and freshly crushed black pepper

● 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

● ½ cup EVOO

Grill sliced peaches over mesquite charred wood. Remove from grill when fork tender and chop. Add to bowl.

Cut brioche into ¾ inch cubes. On a flat sheet pan, toast bread cubes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit until dry (about 10-15 minutes). Or, place them on the grill and toast until dry.

Combine peaches, brioche cubes, tomatoes, thinly sliced onion, and chopped herbs in a bowl.

For the Dressing:

Combine all ingredients in a Mason jar. Shake very well and dress the panzanella.

Panzanella Tips:

* Make the panzanella an hour or so before serving so the brioche gets softer with the dressing.

* This salad is equally delicious with nectarines, watermelon, cantaloupe, honey dew, plums or berries.

Kir's Grilled Peach Panzanella

And finally, I give you “Pa amb tomàquet“:

This is the name in Catalán for bread with tomato. This was a staple in the monastery in Monte Randa in Palma De Mallorca, Spain, and throughout all my monastic life. I fell in love with the simplicity and deliciousness of the 2 ingredients. It cries Summer and freshness. In its most simple way it is just tomato, bread, olive oil, salt and pepper. But you can add as many components as your creativity dictates.

Ingredients:

● Ripe tomatoes, sliced

● Country bread, sliced

● Extra Virgin Olive oil

● Salt and pepper

Optional:

Garlic (minced or sliced), herbs

Assemble like so: