Tuesday, December 16, 2014

The Gingerbread Church

Have I said how much I love the holidays? I love the holidays! One of the things I look forward to the most is creating gingerbread structures. It has become my tradition since 2010. This year, I decided to replicate a historic 1900 Episcopal church as I love the architecture.


This is a week-long labor of love. I play holiday music while I work to get in the Christmas spirit. I spend days designing and constructing the church. In addition, I prepare a dessert buffet which I will present at the gingerbread church's unveiling. 

The walls and steeple are made out of gingerbread. Everything is in the details as some say, so I take my time carving the “bricks” and designs into the walls and steeple. Once I get started, I can’t stop. 

                                                     

Nearly every church has stained glass windows and this one is no exception. The windows of my church are made from poured sugar. Poured sugar consists of cooking water and sugar to a high temperature, adding glucose, and cooking it even more. Once it reaches the desired temperature the poured sugar can be colored and poured into molds. In this case, the molds are cut-outs in the gingerbread church walls. Once the sugar has set the stained glass windows are complete. To highlight the beauty of the stained glass, I install lighting inside the church. 






The church is not complete until the doors, the roof and the landscape are decorated with royal icing. I get lost while decorating. Although it is time consuming I enjoy every minute of it.


The church doors:


Close-up of the landscape:




While the gingerbread church was being created, this came together for the edible edifice's unveiling: 

The Menu for the December 2014 Gathering:  

Passion fruit cheeseflan
* Mini lemon and blueberry jam trifles
* Milk chocolate mousse
* Stollen
* Almond cakelettes with an assortment of creams
* Pumpkin apple cake pudding 
* Egg nog
* Meringue cookies 'Brutti ma buoni'
* A village of cocoa-gingerbread houses petits fours
* Truffles
* Crystallized Almonds
Linzer tart and Flamande tart

One week later, the gingerbread church and the dessert buffet are ready for their unveiling at the rectory of Father Ron Pollock in Somerville, NJ:




From my friends and family to yours, I wish you the happiest of holidays!


Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Presenting The Bûche de Noël

The holiday season is a time of family, friendship and food – three things I enjoy immensely. The tree is decorated, gifts are wrapped, and the Bûche de Noël is ready to make its appearance.

Popular in France, the Bûche de Noël, literally meaning “yule log”, is a light, fluffy sponge cake filled with jam or preserves and covered in buttercream. The log is cut with the ends strategically placed to give the appearance of a chopped tree branch while the buttercream is “carved” with a fork to emulate tree bark. The cake can be decorated with meringue snowmen, mushrooms, candies or actual floral items. It is lovely to look and even lovelier to eat. The Bûche de Noël is perfect for entertaining loved ones at the holiday season.

This year, perhaps Santa would appreciate a slice of the Bûche de Noël instead of cookies.  
 
Recipe for Bûche de Noël
Ingredients
Sponge Cake
Soaking syrup (simple syrup spiked with liquor)
Filling
Chocolate Buttercream

Ingredients for the Sponge Cake
4 egg whites
125 gm granulated sugar
4 egg yolks
125 gm cake flour, sifted
60 gm butter, melted but not hot

Procedure
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a half sheet pan with cooking spray; line the pan with parchment paper and set aside.
2. Prepare a French meringue with the egg whites: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, whisk the egg whites and sugar to stiff peak.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks.
4. Fold egg yolks into French meringue.
5. Fold sifted cake flour into the meringue in 1/3’s.
6. Remove about 1 cup of batter and place in a separate bowl. Fold melted butter into this batter.
7. Fold melted butter/batter into remaining batter.
8. Pour batter into sheet pan and gently spread evenly.
9. Bake for 5-7 minutes, rotating pan halfway so cake cooks evenly. Cake is done when it is browned evenly, springs back to the touch, and pulls away from the sides of the pan.
10. Upon removing cake from oven, turn it onto a cooled pan or baking rack.

Ingredients for the Filling
100 gm heavy cream
25 gm powdered sugar
50 gm cranberry preserves or other desired flavor

Procedure
1. In the mixing bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, add heavy cream and powdered sugar. Make sure the bowl and heavy cream are both cold.
2. Whip the heavy cream until medium peaks.
3. Gently fold in the cranberry preserves.
4. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Ingredients for the Buttercream
75 gm egg whites
150 gm granulated sugar
75 mL water
35 gm granulated sugar
225 gm butter, cubed
Pinch of salt
Pinch of cream of tartar
200 gm chocolate, melted over double boiler

Procedure
1. In a saucepan, combine 150 gm granulated sugar and water. Using your finger or small spatula, gently stir sugar into water being careful not to get sugar on sides of saucepan. If this happens, use a wet brush to remove sugar crystals.
2. Cook sugar to soft-ball stage (238°F). Do not stir the sugar while it is cooking.
3. Prepare Bain Marie and melt chocolate. Once chocolate is melted, set aside so it cools to room temperature.
4. When the sugar begins to boil, prepare an Italian meringue: Add egg whites, remaining 35 gm sugar, pinch of salt and cream of tartar to a mixing bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Whisk egg whites to medium peak. If medium peak is reached before sugar reaches soft-ball stage, lower speed on mixer. Do not turn mixer off.
5. When sugar reaches soft ball stage, pour sugar into mixer with Italian meringue, being careful not to pour onto whisk.
6. Increase mixer to high speed until meringue is at room temperature.
7. Gradually add cubes of butter until thoroughly combined. Continue mixing until the buttercream is the consistency of mayonnaise.
8. Fold the melted chocolate into the buttercream.

Assembling the Bûche de Noël
1. When cake has cooled, brush with soaking syrup.
2. Spread cake with a thin layer of buttercream.
3. Place the cake in front of you so the long edge is next to you. Roll the cake into a log.
4. Cover the log with buttercream.
5. Using a serrated knife, cut the ends of the log off in a diagonal.
6. Place the ends on top of the log to resemble branches.
7. Completely cover the cake with buttercream.
8. Using a fork, score the frosted cake so it resembles tree bark.


9. Cake can be decorated with meringue, marzipan characters, or other decorations. You can also gently sift powdered sugar over the cake to give the appearance of snow.



Sunday, November 23, 2014

A New Take on the Thanksgiving Meal


The holidays are approaching. The smell of wood burning in fireplaces, the feel of cool, nippy air caressing your face, the autumn chore of raking of orange, red, yellow and brown leaves; this puts me in party mode.

I start planning my Thanksgiving dinner in October, going through many ideas before deciding upon the final menu. This year’s holiday feast will kick off with appetizers of Stilton gougères, which are little pillows of dough and Stilton. They will be followed by a hot and delicious carrot and beet soup, scarlet in color and served with one large tempura shrimp.

For the entrée, a cassoulet. This is a slow-roasted, French casserole comprised of duck, sausages, lamb and cannellini beans. To make it fit Thanksgiving, I will add turkey meat. Side dishes of braised leeks, roasted brussel sprouts with chorizo, and roasted fall vegetables will complement the cassoulet. I'm hungry already! 

Once finished, an intermezzo of Raspberry port sorbet will serve as a tasty palate cleanser.

For dessert, a dramatic presentation of baked Alaska consisting of layers of chestnut, vanilla, and cranberry ice creams covered in clouds of Swiss meringue. Instead of baking it in the oven, I will flambé the baked Alaska at the table for my guests. While the flames are dancing I will sprinkle cinnamon powder for sparkles.

After dessert we will enjoy coffee, chocolates and post prandials next to a vigorous and toasty wood fireplace in the sitting room.

Let's start planning our dinners, setting the tables, coordinating the dishes, and playing the jazz sounds of Michael Bubblé, Ella Fitzgerald and Rod Stewart. Enjoy the holidays to come. Salud!


Baked Alaska (8 – 10 servings)
*It is best to start preparation the day prior. The Swiss Meringue needs to be made the day the Baked Alaska is served.

Sponge Cake (recipe follows)
2-3 Flavors of your favorite ice cream and/or sorbet
Swiss Meringue (recipe follows)

Equipment
Loaf pan lined generously with plastic wrap
Pastry bag with a star tip

Sponge Cake Recipe (for 9 inch cake or half sheet (13"x16") pan)
Ingredients
125 grams cake flour
35 grams butter
5 eggs
125 grams sugar

Procedure
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Line a cake pan or half-sheet tray with parchment paper and set aside.
2. Warm the butter until it is melted. Set aside and keep warm but not hot.
3. Sift the cake flour and set aside.
4. While butter is melting, place eggs and sugar in a bowl over a Bain Marie. Whisk until they are slightly warmer than body temperature (110°F). (Hint: when testing the temperature with your finger it will feel warm but not hot.)
5. In a mixing bowl fitted with whisk attachment, whip warmed eggs and sugar until triple in volume.
6. Gradually add the cake flour in 1/3’s and fold after each addition into the eggs/sugar.
7. Remove 1 cup of batter and fold into melted butter.
8. Fold butter mixture into original batter.
9. Pour batter into prepared cake pan and spread evenly. Bake for 7 – 10 minutes until sponge cake is golden brown, springs to the touch, and pulls away from the sides of the pan. 

Assembling the Baked Alaska
To see a video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ2HLkokLcY&feature=youtu.be
1. Spray the loaf pan with cooking spray. Line the loaf pan with plastic wrap. Leave some plastic hanging over the loaf for easy removal.
2. Soften ice cream and/or sorbet. Place first ice cream in bottom 1/3 of the loaf pan. Put back in the freezer and let harden (this will make it easier to add the next layer). Repeat this process for the next two layers of ice cream and/or sorbet.
3. When the final ice cream/sorbet layer is in place, press the piece of cake (4” x 8”) on top of ice creams. Cover with the hanging plastic wrap and keep in freezer overnight.

Swiss meringue
200 grams egg whites
225 grams sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine all ingredients. Place bowl over a Bain Marie and whisk until the egg whites feel warm or slightly hot (like 130°F).
2. Place the bowl on the mixing stand and whip with whisk attachment on high speed for 3 minutes. Lower speed to medium and keep whipping for 2 more minutes.  The meringue should be room temperature by now. If not, keep whipping until it is room temperature.


3. While the meringue is whipping, remove the Alaska from freezer. Dislodge the ice cream from the pan using the excess plastic wrap for help.
4. Once the dessert is out of the pan, place on a nice oven resistant tray with cake side down.
5. Start with half of the Swiss meringue in a pastry bag fitted with star tip. Cover the entire dessert with Swiss meringue in any design that you prefer.
6. Put the Alaska in the freezer. Keep in freezer until 30 minutes before serving.
                                          
When Ready to Serve:
1. Preheat oven to 450°F for 10 minutes.
2. Put the Alaska in oven and bake for 5 minutes or until golden brown.
3. Bring to dining table immediately and slice and enjoy.
                                   
Or, if you prefer to flambé the Baked Alaska at the table:
Warm up 2 tablespoons of brandy and pour into a metal ladle very carefully.  Dim the lights in the dining room, use a match to light the alcohol and pour over the Alaska to the oohs and ahs of your friends.  


                                   


Friday, October 17, 2014

Fall Harvest

When summer comes to an end and cool winds graze my face in the morning, I know it's time to get my fall calendar in order. Clean the garden, harvest fall vegetables, plan holiday parties, get wood for the fireplace, and maybe plan a bonfire...

The first holiday is Halloween, also known as All Hallows Eve. It suggests carving pumpkins and making candies for the kids (little and big ones) for "Trick or Treat". We can make pumpkin pies, pumpkin ice cream, butternut squash soup, even hot cocoa with pumpkin marshmallows. Ooooh -- let's start with that one!

Hot Cocoa

3 ounces Dark chocolate (58%-70%), chopped
1/4  cup Hot water
3/4 cup Hot milk
Pinch of Salt
Spices (cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla)


1. In a large bowl, combine hot water, hot milk, salt, and spices.
2. Add chocolate and let rest for 2 minutes to allow the chocolate to melt.
3. Whisk mixture vigorously until well homogenized.
4. Serve with whipped cream and Pumpkin Marshmallows (recipe follows)


Pumpkin Marshmallows (50 1-inch pieces)

4 TBSP Powdered gelatin
180 ml Cold water
400 gm Sugar
180 ml Water
1 TBSP Corn syrup
2 Egg whites, whipped
Pinch of salt

1/2 cup Canned pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)
1 tsp Vanilla
1 tsp Cinnamon
1/2 tsp Nutmeg
1/2 tsp Clove
1 tsp Ginger
1/2 tsp Allspice
1/2 tsp Salt
Powdered sugar, for dusting
Cornstarch, for dusting

Prepare the Gelatin:
1. Put 180 mL cold water in a bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over water. Allow gelatin to sit in water for 5-10 minutes to hydrate.
2. In a bain marie or in a microwave at half-power (30 second increments), melt gelatin and water until it becomes liquid. Gelatin should be warm (body temp) but not hot. 

Prepare an Italian Meringue:
1. In a saucepan, combine sugar, water, and corn syrup. Gently combine with a spatula. If sugar granules get on the sides of the saucepan, brush the saucepan with a brush dipped in water.
2. Cook sugar, water and corn syrup to 240°F. (A digital thermometer or candy thermometer works best.)
3. Once sugar, water, and corn syrup reaches 220°F, add egg whites and pinch of salt to mixing bowl fitted with whisk attachment. Whip on medium speed to soft peak. Egg whites are soft peak when they hold a shape but fall over. Note: If the egg whites are at soft peak and the sugar has not reached 240°F, lower the mixing speed to the lowest setting. Don't turn the mixer off.
4. When sugar has reached 240°F (soft ball stage), carefully pour sugar in mixing bowl over whipped whites. Try to avoid pouring sugar on whisk attachment to prevent burns. Safety first!
5. Whip for 2 minutes at high speed.
6. Lower speed and add melted gelatin
7. Continue whipping Italian meringue on medium speed until medium peak. The peaks still fall over but not as much as a soft peak. They will not be as firm as a stiff peak which does not fold over at all. The meringue should be cooled to room temperature by this time.

Make the Marshmallows:
1. While meringue is mixing, combine pumpkin puree, salt, and spices in a bowl.
2. Fold Italian meringue into the pumpkin puree/spice mixture until fully incorporated.
3. In a bowl, combine powdered sugar and cornstarch. Generously dust a shallow sheet pan with mixture.
4. Pour marshmallow over powdered sugar/corn starch.
5. Spread to a 3/4-inch thickness; generously sprinkle with more powdered sugar and corn starch.
6. Let marshmallow rest until set at room temp. Cut into desired shapes.

Store finished marshmallows in an airtight container.

Enjoy many fall nights with a cup of (or two) of this delicious concoction.

Happy Fall!





Monday, September 8, 2014

Celebrate Chocolate!!

“He showed the words ‘chocolate cake’ to a group of Americans and recorded their word associations. ‘Guilt’ was the top response. If that strikes you as unexceptional, consider the response of French eaters to the same prompt: ‘celebration’”.
          -- Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

We must celebrate chocolate!

I am not French, but I also believe chocolate should be honored. Milk chocolate, dark, bittersweet, even white – all of these have a place on our table. All are instrumental when celebrating, whether they be life’s milestones or Sunday afternoon with friends.

The trifle is a perfect way to start the celebration.

Also referred to as Fool, Zuppa Inglese, Tipsy Cake, or Punschtorte, the trifle is an English dessert layered with sponge cake, custard, fruits and whipped cream.

I love making trifles for large parties because they are easy and affordable. Turning your favorite dessert into a trifle is not difficult at all:
     
  • Tiramisu - layers of cake soaked with rum and coffee, zabaglione, fresh fruits, mascarpone,   whipped cream and cocoa powder
  • Black forest - layers of chocolate cake soaked with Kirsch, cherries, chocolate mousse and whipped cream
  • Banana cream pie - layers of sponge soaked with rum, custard, sliced ripe bananas and whipped cream
My favorite Trifles are inspired by seasonal ingredients. I recently made a Trifle consisting of strawberries, chocolate cake, and three kinds of chocolate mousse.

Chocolate, Strawberry and Mousse Trifle (Best made a day in advance)
Ingredients for Chocolate Sponge Cake (Roulade)
5 Egg whites
1 tsp Cream of tartar
Pinch of Salt
100 grams Sugar
5 Egg yolks
75 grams Cake flour
35 grams Cocoa powder
¼ tsp Baking powder  
¼ tsp Baking soda
2 pints of Strawberries halved, stems removed
Frangelico liquor
3/4 cup Simple syrup

The Mousses: All mousses should be made no more than 30 minutes prior to using. Otherwise, they will set and can’t be poured into the bowl.

Ingredients for Dark Chocolate Mousse:
6 oz. Dark chocolate (61% to 75%), melted
1/2 cup Milk, hot
Pinch of Salt
1/4 tsp Vanilla extract
1 cup Heavy cream, softly whipped

Ingredients for Milk Chocolate Mousse:
12 oz. Milk chocolate, melted               
cup + 2 TBSP Milk, hot
3/4 cup Heavy cream, softly whipped
1/2 tsp Balsamic vinegar
Pinch of Salt
Pinch of Cinnamon

White Chocolate Mousse:
6 oz. White chocolate, melted
¼ cup Milk, hot
½ cup Heavy cream, softly whipped
1/2 tsp Balsamic vinegar
Pinch of Salt

Directions for the Chocolate Sponge Cake

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line ½ sheet tray with parchment paper.

2. Make a French Meringue: Add egg whites, pinch of salt, and cream of tartar to mixing bowl fitted with whisk attachment. Whip egg whites, pinch of salt, and cream of tartar until foamy. Slowly add sugar to prevent deflating the whipped egg whites. Whip egg whites to medium peak.

3. Gently whisk egg yolks.

4. Sift dry ingredients together.

5. Fold egg yolks into French meringue. Once yolks are incorporated into French meringue, fold dry ingredients in two batches. It is ok to leave some of the dry ingredients from the first round before adding the second batch of dry ingredients. Make sure there are no dry sections after second round of dry ingredients is folded in.

6. Pour onto prepared sheet tray. With an offset spatula, gently spread the batter to the edges of the sheet tray, being careful not to deflate the batter. Clean the edge by running your thumb around the edge of the sheet tray. This makes it easier to remove the cake from the sheet pan once finished baking.

7. Bake for 7-8 minutes. Roulade is done when it springs back when touched.

8. Remove from oven. Run spatula along edges of pan to loosen cake. Cover with parchment paper and flip over to remove cake from pan. Peel the parchment paper off the cake. Cover with a towel to keep the cake moist until completely cooled.

Assembling the Trifle
1. Make simple syrup: In a saucepan, combine 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup cold water. Bring to a boil until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Stir in Frangelico.

2. Cut the cooled cake into pieces to arrange in first layer of trifle bowl.

3. With a pastry brush, brush the cake layer with 1/2 of Frangelico/simple syrup

4. Slice strawberries in half and arrange in any desired pattern. Press the cut side of strawberries firm against the glass. Any odd pieces of berries and cake can be placed in the middle.


5. Make the white chocolate mousse:
·                Melt white chocolate over a double boiler. Remove from heat.
·                Heat milk in the microwave.
·                Pour hot milk over melted chocolate. Gently stir until combined. 
      Cool over ice bath.
·                In a mixer, whip heavy cream to soft peaks.
·                Fold whipped cream into melted chocolate mixture.

6. Pour white chocolate mousse over strawberries. Mousse should completely cover strawberries with ½ inch coverage. Try to keep mousse on top of strawberries without getting it in between trifle bowl and strawberries.

7. Put in refrigerator to set for about 30 minutes.

8. Make milk chocolate mousse:
·                In a double boiler, melt milk chocolate. Remove from heat.
·                Heat milk in microwave.
·                Pour hot milk over milk chocolate. Gently stir until combined. 
      Cool over ice bath.
·                Add balsamic vinegar, cinnamon, and salt to milk chocolate mixture once 
      cool.
·                In a mixer, whip cream to soft peaks.
·                Fold whipped cream into melted chocolate mixture. 

9. Pour milk chocolate mousse over white chocolate mousse.

10. Put in refrigerator to set for 30 minutes.

11. Brush another layer of cake with Frangelico syrup and place on top of milk chocolate mousse.

12. Make dark chocolate mousse:
·                   Melt dark chocolate over a double boiler. Remove from heat.
·                   Heat milk in the microwave.
·                   Pour hot milk over melted chocolate. Gently stir until combined. Stir in 
       vanilla extract and pinch of salt. Cool over ice bath.
·                   In a mixer, whip heavy cream to soft peaks.
·                   Fold whipped cream into melted chocolate mixture.

13. Pour dark chocolate mousse on top of cake layer.

14. Cover trifle with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator overnight. To finish trifle, decorate with whipped cream, mousse or more berries.
Here’s what the layers look like:  
                                                 

To garnish the top, artistic skills are not a requirement. All that is needed is an imagination. The top can be decorated in any fashion you like. I use a pastry bag and make designs. The chocolate can also be drizzled or spread in a thin layer.


Or, instead of making one large dessert, consider Individual Fools. These are perfectly portioned desserts for guests who want a beautiful dessert all of their own

Individual Fool Recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups Angel food cake, cut in one-inch cubes
12 oz. Raspberries
¼ cup + 2 TBSP Sugar
Zest of one Lime
1 cup Heavy cream
¼ cup Crème Fraîche

Procedure:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2.. On a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, place angel food cake cubes in oven for 5-10 minutes until toasted. Remove from oven and let cool.   

3. With a fork, mash berries with 2 TBSP sugar and zest

4. In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream and Crème Fraiche together. Slowly add remainder of sugar while heavy cream and crème fraiche are mixing.

5. Alternate layers of toasted angel food cake, raspberries and whipped creams. Serve.
Or, try this variation of the Fool:



This one is layered with angel food cake, lemon cream and blueberry jam (made with my garden blueberries) and topped with a brandied cherry. To make brandied cherries, cook Bing cherries in simple syrup for 15 minutes. When cooled, place cherries in mason jars filled 1/3 with simple syrup and 2/3 with brandy. The longer they sit, the better they taste. Mine were in the jar for a year.


I encourage you to celebrate using these recipes, whether it is a birthday, anniversary, or simply, Tuesday.